I haven’t had much to say here for a while, not for want of activity!
Craigmoor Pavilion is six months old – hosting functions, making magnificent sourdough and redefining weekend grazing. As hard as I am to please, I love its new/old look.
We grew Australia’s first organic hemp seed crop and are using it in all sorts of ways now that it is happily (and luckily) legal for human consumption.
The edible garden continues to expand in productivity, form and beauty.
Our staff has grown too, including two of my sons working as chefs (Sam is baking and Alec is sous) and my step son Alex as restaurant manager at Zin. Somehow we are all still talking to each other.
And it is with much pleasure (and relief) I introduce you to Jeremy Metivier, Zin House’s Head Chef. Jeremy and I are combining his considerable fine dining skills with my simple ethos, aiming for an elegant balance.
I met Jeremy when he was at Cottage Point Inn and we enjoyed many spirited discussions about food, eating and growing the food you eat over the year or so we took to decide to work together.
These discussions have continued and intensified with wins on all sides – a win for Jeremy as a foam snuck in, a win for me when the sous vide machine didn’t and nothing but wins for those eating our new menus.
We look forward to sharing The Zin House with you soon, maybe even for the following event where David Lowe challenges the worlds best Zin’s to a vertical of his own.
Truffle & Zinfandel Dinner with Jeremy Metivier & David Lowe.
Winter sorts true gardeners from the posing guardians.
Like me – an indoor dweller making brief dashes to wave instructions, place requests and greedily take possession of the harvest that’s offered into the snug of the kitchen.
Our gardener Jackie is a rain, hail or shine, sunflower gold legend.
To look you wouldn’t think there’s much growing but a steady stream of salad, spinach, brassicas, herbs, radishes, Jerusalem artichokes and rhubarb flow in the door. Thin pickings increase creativeness and a new batch of nettles will make a pesto to top oxtail ravioli. Today I picked the first of the seasons blood oranges. Actually they’re pretty sad and as once predicted are now ‘the bloody oranges’.
But now is also a time to dream and plan – a new rose bed with choices by all the team and discussions underway on our herb and spice trail including an edible meadow. The 23 terrace shutters and a mansion front door inadvertently bought at auction, still thinking.
The good cold weather news is that anyone’s cooking can shine in winter.
A handful of ingredients, thrown together and slow cooked. Ever notice that when they interview the worlds greatest chefs they invariably feature the food they ‘love to cook for family and friends’? And it’s simple food! Food for kings – and gardeners, same thing round here.
Oxtail ravioli with mushrooms in soy chilli sauce
Serves 8 as an entree or 4/6 as a main
If you’re making this dish for two just freeze the extra portions of ravioli, it takes very little extra time to make a large version.
If you don’t wish to make the pasta buy wonton wrappers.
You can skip the braised oxtail step and use a seasoned mince or left over meat filling for a quick alternative.
You could also cook the pasta as ribbons and toss the meat and juices through it ragout style
Prepare the oxtail braise and the pasta dough as per recipes below.
10 minutes before you want to serve prepare the mushroom sauce.
Serve at once in a big dish for sharing.
1 kg oxtail, seasoned with salt and pepper
1 each carrot, celery stick & onion
1 litre stock or water
1 cup diced fresh tomatoes or a can of diced tomatoes
1 cup red wine
a few cloves of garlic
2 bay leaves
Combine all the ingredints in a heavy dish with a tight fitting lid and cook slowly for three hours or until the meat falls from the bone – or overnight very slowly
Remove the meat from the bones and dice. Set aside the juices
300 grams pasta flour
3 eggs ( 60 gram eggs)
1 small teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon paella spice (optional)
Combine all ingredients into a pliable ball, either by hand or machine. Add a little more flour or beaten egg to get this consistency if necessary.
Rest the dough, covered, for an hour or until you are ready to use it.
Pass through a pasta roller or roll by hand until you have sheets that are approx. 2mm thin (Level 6 on a pasta roller)
On a flat lightly floured surface use a round cutter (between 80mm and 90mm is usual) to make the ravioli base, three or four per person for an entree size and a few more as a main course
Using your fingers or a pastry brush, sparingly wet the edge of one half of the pasta circle with a little water
Place a rounded teaspoon of filling (recipe follows) in the centre and fold in half
Gently push the seam together to seal
Set aside on a baking paper lined tray, do not let them overlap. At this stage the ravioli will keep well for a day or so or freeze for use directly from the freezer
They are now ready to be cooked, not too many at a time, in gently boiling water until they rise to the surface
8 large meaty mushrooms, thickly sliced
100 grams butter
50 ml olive oil
3 or 4 cloves garlic, sliced
1 large red chilli, sliced
the leaves from a couple of sprigs of fresh thyme
100 mls juices from the oxtail
100mls white wine
1 cup of peas or sliced snow peas
25 mls soy sauce
10 mls sweet chilli sauce
Bring the butter and oil to a sizzle
Add the garlic, chilli, mushrooms and thyme
Sauté until just colouring
While still on the heat add the remaining ingredients and cook another minute or until a thin sauce consistency
Check for seasoning
Place the cooked ravioli on the base of a serving platter. Top with the mushroom sauce.
In a world of overblown, overdone, over the top food is it quite misunderstood?
Is the celebration of technique over flavour, played out nightly on our TV screens, leading to food played with half to death over lightness of touch.
Is drama and difficulty elevated beyond the quietly spoken dish?
Is food narcissism at a point where nobody notices the workhorses over the show ponies? Rather than quietly stating your dish does everything have to be a cavalcade of mastery?
And perhaps most frustratingly for those of us providing a food experience – must we now put up with food snobs, bores and ignoramuses reviewing us as if they knew what they were talking about?
I will cop an average review along with anyone else where it is warranted. I will apologise publicly or privately as the occasion may warrant it if anything we do in the restaurant fails to meet your or my high expectations.
I will listen with genuine interest to your opinions, ideas, thoughts and feedback.
But I’m just a bit fed up with ignorance and malice masquerading as opinion on public review sites.
We claim only that we cook simply, cook from scratch and cook local.
We proudly open our beautiful restaurant every weekend with love in our hearts and in our food.
It’s such a bore when someone can graze on freshly baked bread; just picked salads; the highest quality fresh local ingredients; soups, stocks and sauces made from scratch and then complain that our food lacks ‘technique’, that our menus ‘need work’ and that they could do the same at home,
Great! Next time, you do that, and save the seat at our restaurant for those who want some unpretentious homecooking in someone else’s home.
Everyones happy then 🙂
Cauliflower, leek and potato soup
I promised someone who dined with us last week to post the recipe for the soup that (almost) everyone raved about.
Saute the following with two tablespoons each of butter and good olive oil:
One cauliflower, roughly chopped
two leeks, sliced and cleaned
250 grams potatoes, roughly chopped
a few cloves garlic
a few bay leaves, a couple of sprigs of thyme & one of rosemary
1 lime, halved
1 or two chillis
Then add enough good quality stock to cover and cook gently until soft, about twenty minutes
Remove the herbs and puree everything else, including the lime
Season to taste with good salt and a mixture of ground white pepper and coarse black pepper
Just before serving heat with the best quality cream you can find ( we use Little Big Dairy Company) , about one 25% to volume or to suit your taste