The chef, the owner (who used to be the chef) and the reviewer

We know everyone’s a reviewer now, so how lovely when we get a rave review from the country’s leading professional restaurant critic.

John Lethlean writes in this weeks Australian “Pretty much my idea of the ideal regional restaurant: unpretentious yet stylish; warm and hospitable, with service that doesn’t make apologies for the address; food sourced as locally as possible; wines that talk of the region; and a kitchen with really skilful cooking that knows its audience.”

A lovely trial by fire for new head chef Jeremy Metivier, if you haven’t tried Jeremy’s updated version of Zin House cooking then you should.

This brings me to the very challenging juggling we’ve been doing here at Zin between my rustic style, Jeremy’s more refined cooking and our principles of cooking simply, from scratch. I think that we’re both learning to be better cooks as I accept that young chefs might know a thing or two I don’t and the opportunity to cook from a garden rather than a shopping list provides disciplines of creativity courtesy of the seasons.

Or as Lethlean put it in describing one of the dishes “A crimson tide of beetroot and pomegranate seeds tartare style with garden leaves and walnut cream, a marvellously inventive dish made better by rice crips that use zinfandel lees in the batter.”

I’m happy for the food to always have the last word.

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