I’ve always been a bit ambivalent about terrines, they seemed so old fashioned and fiddly. But then I used to think geraniums kitch and I was so sure nothing anyone wore in the 70’s would ever come back into fashion. As I increasingly wish to rebel against food as a fashion statement and the relegation of classics by passing flimsy, terrines are back in my kitchen and a firm fixture on Zin House menus. This terrine also supports the pork producer who supplies us (Ian and Anne Watts of Putta Bucca Free Range) because it means along with our slow roasting we can use most parts of the pig; this recipe uses mince, bacon and fillet and if you wished you could incorporate the offal too. When you cook seasonally old school combinations make even more sense – our trees are covered in oranges at the moment and we’re harvesting beetroot so this becomes the salad combination. In summer it might be figs or plums in a relish and then in winter pickled pears. We’ll be weaving daisy chains to wear over our kaftans if I’m not careful.
Saute a chopped onion, and some garlic with a few sprigs of fresh thyme and bay leaf. I also add some carrot and celery but this is optional. Add a cup of red wine and a half a cup of fruity relish (we make one from excess summer fruits and use it all year for dishes like this) and reduce until syrupy. Combine this with 1 kg of pork mince, 2 eggs, 1 cup of breadcrumbs, zest of an orange, a handful of fresh chopped herbs, 1/2 cup of hazelnuts of pistachios and season with salt and pepper. What I do next is shown in the photo, I lay bacon out on kitchen paper that has a backing of foil and then place a layer of the pork mince on that. On top on the mince goes seared pork fillet and then another layer of mince. Then the whole lot gets rolled up to form a cylinder which is then baked in a moreratly slow oven for between one and one and a half hours. I no longer bother with a water bath or pressing the terrines when cooked as I find the water sometimes takes up the juices which is a waste and pressing similarly causes you to lose the terrine juices which when left alone set as a nice jellied stock.